Ingredients for Grilled Skirt Steaks with Tomatillos Two Ways

• 4 pasillas de Oaxaca (dried smoked chillies), wiped clean

• 450g fresh tomatillos, husked and rinsed, then quartered

• 1 cup packed coriander sprigs

• 2 garlic cloves

• 1 tablespoon packed dark brown sugar

• 1 teaspoon molasses (not blackstrap)

• 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin

• 80ml vegetable oil

• 60ml vegetable oil, divided

• 3/4 teaspoons ground cumin

• 800g skirt steak, halved

• 230g fresh tomatillos, husked and rinsed

• 1 cup coriander leaves

• 2 teaspoons finely chopped shallot

• 2 teaspoons fresh lime juice

Slit chillies lengthwise, then stem and seed. Heat a dry heavy skillet (not nonstick) over medium heat until hot, then toast chillies, opened flat, turning and pressing with tongs, until more pliable and slightly changed in colour, about 1 minute. Cover chillies with hot water in a bowl and soak until softened, about 20 minutes, then drain.

Purée chillies, tomatillos, coriander, garlic, brown sugar, molasses, cumin, and 1 teaspoon salt in a blender until smooth, about 1 minute.

Heat oil in a 10-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers, then cook salsa (it will spatter), stirring occasionally, until slightly thicker, 5 to 8 minutes.

Prepare a grill for direct-heat cooking over hot charcoal (high heat for gas); see Grilling Procedure.

Whisk together 2 tablespoons oil, cumin, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper, then coat steaks.

Oil grill rack, then grill steaks, covered only if using a gas grill, turning once, until grill marks appear, 4 to 6 minutes total for medium-rare. Let steaks rest on a cutting board, loosely covered with foil, 10 minutes.

Thinly slice tomatillos and toss with coriander, shallot, lime juice, remaining 2 tablespoons oil, and salt and pepper to taste.

Cut steaks into serving pieces and top with salsa and salad.

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