Ingredients for Striped Bass in Agrodolce Sauce

• 120ml olivolja

• 675g shallots (about 10 large or 15 medium), trimmed, leaving root end intact, and quartered lengthwise (halved if small)

• 350ml dry red wine

• 240ml white balsamic vinegar

• 160ml water

• 80ml sugar

• 60ml golden raisins

• 1 3/4 teaspoons salt

• 1/2 teaspoons black pepper

• 1 California bay leaf (or 2 Turkish)

• 8 (6- to 200g ) pieces farm-raised striped bass fillet (1/2 inch thick), skinned

• Garnish: chopped fennel fronds

Heat 60ml oil in a 12- to 13-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then sauté shallots, stirring occasionally, until browned and just tender, about 8 minutes. Remove from heat and add wine, vinegar, water, sugar, raisins, 1 1/4 teaspoons salt, 1/4 teaspoons pepper, and bay leaf, then briskly simmer, stirring occasionally, until shallots are very tender and liquid is thick and syrupy, 40 to 45 minutes. (If liquid is reduced before shallots are tender, add 120ml water and continue to simmer.)

Pat fish dry, then sprinkle with remaining 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1/4 teaspoons pepper. Fold fillets in half, skinned side in.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then sauté 4 folded fillets, turning over once, until deep golden, 4 to 6 minutes total. Put cooked fish (still folded) on top of sauce in heavy skillet. Wipe out nonstick skillet and sauté remaining 4 fillets in remaining 2 tablespoons oil in same manner, transferring to sauce.

Cook, partially covered, over moderate heat until fish is just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes.

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