Ingredients for Cheese-Stuffed Poblanos with Tomato Sauce (Chillies Rellenos de Queso)

• 4 large fresh poblano chillies (450g )

• 230g Monterey Jack cheese, coarsely grated (375g )

• 675g tomatoes, coarsely chopped

• 240ml water

• 60ml chopped white onion

• 2 large garlic cloves

• 1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar

• 1 teaspoon sugar

• 1 teaspoon dried oregano (preferably Mexican)

• 2 tablespoons corn oil or other vegetable oil

• 475 to 725ml corn oil or other vegetable oil

• 4 large eggs, separated

• 30g plain flour

• Accompaniment: white rice

• a deep-fat thermometer

Roast chillies on their sides on racks of gas burners (1 or 2 per burner) over medium-high heat, turning with tongs, until skins are blistered and slightly charred, 4 to 6 minutes. (Or grill on rack of a grill pan about 2 inches from heat.) Immediately transfer to a large bowl and cover, then let stand 20 minutes.

Purée all sauce ingredients except oil with 2 3/4 teaspoons salt in a blender until smooth, then strain through a medium-mesh sieve into a bowl, pressing on solids, then discarding them.

Heat oil in a deep 12-inch heavy skillet or heatproof casserole (preferably one that can go to the table) over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Carefully pour in sauce and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes (sauce should still be thin). Season with salt.

Carefully rub off skins from chillies, leaving stems attached. Cut a slit lengthwise in each chilli with kitchen shears, then carefully cut out seedpod (including attached ribs) without tearing chilli (hotter chillies smell stronger when cut). Wipe chillies clean with a paper towel if necessary.

Stuff chillies with cheese and enclose filling by overlapping slit slightly if possible, then transfer to a plate. (Use a toothpick to mark any hotter chillies if desired.)

Heat 1/2 inch oil in another 12-inch heavy skillet over medium heat until it registers 182°C on thermometer.

While oil heats, beat egg whites with 1/8 teaspoons salt using an electric mixer until they just hold stiff peaks. Whisk yolks with 1/8 teaspoons salt in a large bowl, then gently fold in whites.

Put flour in a fine-mesh sieve and dust chillies, turning them to lightly coat all sides.

When oil is ready, dip chillies, 1 at a time (hold chilli by stem), in egg coating, spooning it over chilli to cover completely, then fry, turning once, until golden on all sides (lap oil over any lighter areas), 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer chillies with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain.

Meanwhile, reheat sauce over low heat. Lay chillies in sauce to serve.

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